Our Wooden toy box provides fantastic toy storage. Most toy boxes are flat pack MDF toy storage solutions. Our wooden toy box is cut from solid seasoned redwood. Our wooden toy box needs no construction. The toy boxes are finger jointed on all four wooden toy box corners then clamped and cured into place over 24 hours. This means our toy boxes can take knocks and bumps. Our toy boxes have a solid redwood base and a sturdy plank lid. The wooden toy box lid is mounted on cast iron hinges. Sturdy metal drop handles are attached to each end of the wooden toy box. The wooden toy box has been distressed to give it an aged look. The additional bumps and knocks will add to this pattern and make it a more interesting piece.
This wooden toy box is strong enough to sit on and is often used by customers as an occasional seat. The design of the stepped lid means this toy boxes lid will not bow over time.
Blanket boxes have been bedroom furniture for hundreds of years. Quality pine furniture in Victorian England included a blanket boxes as bedroom storage. Pine furniture was expensive. Only the wealthy could afford a bedroom storage closet. Blanket boxes were the simplest bedroom furniture or bedroom storage available in Victorian Britain. Used as bedroom storage this pine furniture was kept at the end of the bed. Accessible bedroom storage made blankets available on chilly nights.
Original blanket boxes were hand built pine furniture from seasoned wood. Dovetail joints made this quality pine furniture strong and enduring. Cast iron handles and hinges finished the bedroom furniture. With a sturdy plank lid this pine furniture provided bedroom storage strong enough to sit on. Blanket boxes might have a candle box inside. Some bedroom furniture included bedroom storage draws for flint and steel. The finest Victorian blanket boxes provided bedroom storage for new fangled lucifer matches. In times past young girls with no bedroom furniture were given blanket boxes as their first piece of pine furniture. This bedroom storage was a place to keep the things she had saved in anticipation of married life.
Some Victorian blanket boxes are still in use today. These pieces of fine pine furniture continue to provide bedroom storage as antique bedroom furniture. Victorian blanket boxes are a testament to the craftsmen who made quality bedroom furniture. Original blanket boxes offered for sale are often neglected pieces of bedroom furniture. Today's mass produced blanket boxes do provide bedroom storage but is a shadow of the fine Victorian pine furniture. We still need functional bedroom storage. But we deserve quality pine furniture built to last. Our bedroom furniture must be:
I wanted blanket boxes made with Victorian craftsmanship. A piece of bedroom furniture strong enough to take life's knocks. Pine furniture that looked as if it had just come out of the workshop. Bedroom storage that was functional and beautiful. I wanted blanket boxes that would last. Bedroom furniture that it would be my daughters toy box. As she grew older her blanket boxes. Quality pine furniture that she could pass on to her children. Of course no one makes them anymore - so I started to make blanket boxes myself.Type your paragraph here.
Victorians made beautiful practical wooden boxes. Wooden storage chest cut from seasoned redwood to make a traditional Victorian storage chest. These hand crafted wooden boxes make beautiful storage chest's. Selected redwood boards are cut to storage chest size. Wooden boxes joints are cut by hand. The panels are test fitted to form the wooden chest. The wooden chest panels are clamped for 24 hours and set with resin. This forms a traditional wooden boxes joint stronger than the typical mass produced wooden chest.
I studied every Victorian blanket box that I could find - although all were different they had many similar features. Around 90cm long, 50cm deep and 45 cm high. All had hand cut dovetail joints in the main structure. Lids were usually flat planks reinforced with cleats. An edging trim at the sides and front of the lids finished the top. On rare versions a deep or stepped lid was used - this meant there was no need for reinforcing cleats as the top structure was already strong. Whether flat or stepped - lids were always secured with good quality cast iron hinges.The blanket box bottom was always the same - pine planks nailed and glued into place. This made the structure incredibly strong and long lasting (something that flat pack just cannot do). Wrapped around the base would be a trim to protect the pine trunk from knocks and scrapes. On rare examples an elegant swan base was carved and glued into place.The outside of the blanket chest was finished with a light wax - the inside sanded smooth and left as raw pine to scent clothes. Most chests had a candle box fitted to the left hand side - sometimes with draws intended to store flint & steel or new fangled lucifer matches. Occasionally beneath the candle box was a secret compartment for storing valuable items.
I used what I learned about blanket boxes to draw up plans to make my own. A self taught carpenter I selected the truest seasoned pine planks. Clamping and curing these overnight I made the panels for the sides, bottom and lid. I set out and hand cut the dovetails for the pine box - using a hand square I glued up and clamped the main structure and allowed it to cure overnight. Once set I attached the bottom and again clamped and cured it overnight. I chiseled out the rebates for the cast iron hinges and attached the lid. Then lots of work with a hand plane and sanding to make sure the storage box is absolutely smooth. I pinned and glued the trims into place along the lid and the bottom and it is ready for the first of three coats of rich wax. Finally I make and install the candle box, attach cast iron handles to each end and viola one beautiful Victorian Blanket Box.
When people saw the chest everyone wanted one. But these cant be mass produced - and I just won't compromise on the quality of the materials or workmanship. So I continue to make these by hand in small numbers - for people who are prepared to wait a little.I was proud of the first blanket box that I made and every single one that leaves my workshop. I know that the one I make for you will be a family treasure that will last a lifetime.
There are lots of websites that will show you how to screw together a few planks of chipboard add a little glue and splash paint around. Sure you will get a blanket box but it won't be anything that you can be proud of. What you really want is great joinery - wood surfaces that are smooth to the touch and a
finish that enhances the richness of the wood. Your friends will say 'wow you built that?' Well you can't make a silk purse out of a pigs ear - carpentry is the same. If you start with poor quality boards you won't get the result that you wanted.
Oak and Beech are both excellent stable woods that will deliver good results. But I am a traditionalist - the Victorians used Pine because of its workability and excellent grain and I do the same. Select your boards carefully - avoid any with heavy twists or cupping - but do look for a wood grain pattern that you like. Dense yellow pine is a good choice - the toy boxes I make start with good yellow pine.
The first job is to make up the wood panels to form the sides, top and bottom of your wooden box. The best option is to run all your boards through a thicknesser so you are confident they are all true. However if you have bought planed boards then select your straightest boards. Boards can be just glued and clamped into position, wood glue is so strong that it will form a perfectly good join. However i advise using biscuits because it will align your boards perfectly and save you a lot of planing and sanding Lay your wooden boards out and put a pencil mark where the joints are going to be. Use a biscuit jointer or router fitted with a slot cutter to make reciprocal slots where the pencil marks meet. Put a good spread of glue on each surface, insert your biscuits, clamp firmly and leave overnight to cure.
You need to decide what sort of joints you want to have, my preference is for either dovetails or finger joints. Both can be tricky to cut I think dovetails look better but that said I get a lot of requests for finger joints. Either finger or dovetails will be more than strong enough for your wood box - but my advice would be to base your decision on the look you want to achieve. No point making something that you don't really want. Use the best saw you have to cut your timber to length, a quality table saw is best for this job - however I have had good results with a standard circular saw if used carefully. Remember the length of the board will be the length of your storage box. Mix glue with sawdust to fill gaps.
So you need a new coffee table - something that adds style and character to your home but is useful storage as well.
These are finished with fine wax and are just the right height to put down your hard earned cup of tea - or your evening glass of wine.
The wood box itself is a great home for all the magazines that spill across your room, DVDs or the Nintendo Wii when it is not being used.
These wooden boxes are strong enough to sit on and customers often use wooden boxes as an occasional seat. With a little care these wooden boxes will be your storage chest for a lifetime. Wooden boxes can be made bespoke to you exact specifications or to fit a particular room in your house. Each storage chest takes two weeks to make.
The storage chest finish is achieved by distressing the wooden boxes and finishing with rich wax. Storage chest wood is a natural product. Your wooden chest will continue to distress over time. This adds to the wooden chest finish. Wooden storage chests have knots and burrs that makes your box individual. Your wooden chest is the only one of its kind.
Each wooden storage chest is treated as a new commission. Our wooden boxes are made with seasoned redwood pine and hand cut each joint. Wooden boxes are clamped into position and the glue is allowed to cure overnight to form a joint that is stronger than the actual wood.
The entire wooden storage chest is sanded repeatedly with different grades of paper to create a worn loved look. Hard wooden boxes edges are softened and a fine wax is applied to protect the wood. Finally the wooden storage chest is polished and iron swing handles and hinges are added.
We make our toy boxes the traditional way. First we join selected planks to make 20mm thick solid wood panels. These are sawn to length and dovetails on each of the four corners are marked out and cut. The dovetail joints we use are incredibly strong (their design pre-dates recorded history) especially when glue or resin is added to the joint. The secret of the dovetail is in its shape which makes it impossible to pull apart.
We use solid cast iron hinges to fix the toy boxes lid to the base and matching cast iron drop handles at each end of the toy box. These are faithful reproductions of original cast iron hardware sourced from a specialist blacksmith.
Every wooden chest uses solid redwood throughout. A solid wooden chest base panel and storage chest lid are sized. The wooden chest is clamped for another 24 hours. This bonds the storage chest lid and solid wooden boxes base onto the carcass.
Using hand cut joinery with resin makes wooden boxes that are beautiful and tough.The wooden boxes are distressed on all sides. This helps the wax to penetrate the wooden chest and create a variated aged storage chest finish.
The wooden boxes are fitted with the traditional cast iron hinges found on the Victorian storage chest. Distressed storage chest drop handles are fitted to each end of the wooden boxes. Inside the wooden boxes there is ample room for storage.